This spring 2023 season saw menswear launches from Peter Do and Simone Rocha. More than ever, designers are joining their collections in co-ed shows, but how they’re going about it is split: Some show their menswear as a companion to their womenswear, subscribing to the classic “he is her husband” visualization (see: Bottega Veneta or Bally), while others are including “menswear” to project an all-embracing, almost genderless vision (Collina Strada, Rocha, Do, and Miu Miu come to mind).
We published our spring 2023 menswear trend report this past June. At those shows, baring skin took center stage, as did the cool vibes of ’90s California with baggy jeans and boardshort lengths. So what’s changed? The tank tops trending then have received a revealing update, as have shirtless suits, which came more undone this time around. Over-the-knee shorts continue to be a key item in most collections, as do trippy Canadian tuxedos. Also new: an abundance of dresses and skirts for dudes–some styled over trousers, some maxi-length. Shakespearean ruffles, shirring, and corsetry were big ideas too. It’s a sign, perhaps, that designers have the confidence to get experimental with their menswear when it’s shown next to women’s as a 360 idea. Here, 10 menswear trends from the women’s spring collections.
Minis and maxis; pencil-cut, shirred, or pleated. Worn alone or styled over trousers, this season was all about skirts and dresses. In the spirit of Helmut Lang, tanks have been reimagined in sheer knits and wide-gauge meshes, some with sinuous cutouts. Those 5” hems TikTok was obsessing over last year? Time to put them away in favor of bermuda-length shorts and skirts. Jewelry often plays a supporting role on the runways—a pretty ornament or a delicate detail, one you only notice after zooming in (or checking out the Details section on our Vogue Runway galleries). But jewelry also says much about a person and their style: minimal or maximalist; adventurous or reserved. It offers insight into what a person prioritizes and is interested in, be it nature with crystals and sustainable materials, or family and craft, as exemplified by antique relics and hand-made trinkets.
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